Next we headed north to Bar Harbor, which managed to be both sleepy and unashamedly tourist-oriented. There were at least two giant cruise ships in the harbor and the shops are kitschy in that calculated-charming way, but you still have the odd genuine eccentric moment:
We stayed at the Atlantean Cottage B&B, which was the former home of a prominent Victorian architect in the region. It definitely had a posher feel than any of the other b&bs we stayed in during the roadtrip, with little touches like a corridor between the kitchen and dinner room that was certainly meant as a place for servants to prep dishes before bringing them out for serving.
Breakfast was included again, and while I didn’t like the fruit cup here as much as at the Kendall Inn in Freeport, the clafouti was ridiculously delicious, with an airy yet moist interior and a crisply browned top.
Dinner at local fave Galyn’s was not so ecstatic. The steamed clams were terribly gritty and many of the shells had shattered edges, making it tricky to chew without accidentally slicing yourself on a shard (not to mention, needed salt, white wine, some kind of seasoning, because the clams were pretty flavorless on their own), but the steamed lobster was all it should have been. And the Indian pudding was definitely one of the better renditions I’ve had, sweetened with molasses so it was rich but not cloying.
Just Two More Things... 
There is no comparison to a simply steamed Maine lobster dish :-). I like Bar Harbor better than Portland. I agree with you, both are tourist oriented but Bar Harbor has managed to retain some of its old time charm. The Atlantean (Frederick Savage’s personal home) is a place I will stay again if I ever go back to the area.
I just wish that I’d had more room in my stomach for the lobster.